{"id":2126,"date":"2018-09-17T11:39:00","date_gmt":"2018-09-17T10:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.mark3d.com\/en\/?p=2126"},"modified":"2025-10-23T14:52:54","modified_gmt":"2025-10-23T13:52:54","slug":"2126-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.mark3d.com\/en\/2126-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Painting Onyx"},"content":{"rendered":"

September\u2019s blog talks about applying finishes to Onyx parts. Faced with a question I couldn\u2019t answer from a customer, I disappeared off home for the weekend with the challenge of spraying one of the showroom samples a metal colour.<\/p>\n

Having sprayed plastic before I was aware that there are problems getting paint to adhere to the surface and the damage that the thinners in the paint can do to the surface of the part. I\u2019ve had some motorcycle parts suffer quite badly and I wasn\u2019t sure how Onyx would react, so I gave it a go. As you know Onyx is quite stable and can be used readily in contact with machine coolant and hot water for long periods, so I was hoping it would spray well too.<\/p>\n

A visit to my local paint supplier with the sample saw me dispatched home with an initial adhesion promotor (a self-etching primer) and a reminder to make sure the surface was completely free of any oil or finger prints. The adhesion promotor I was recommended was PlastiGrip Pro XL as it needed no further work afterwards and dried quickly.<\/p>\n

I then made the decision not to do any mechanical preparation to the original printed surface for three reasons:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. I wanted a \u2018straight off the printer\u2019 painted part.<\/li>\n
  2. Smoothing the surface would have given me \u2018less adhesion\u2019. The standard surface finish is great for painting and saves a lot of time that\u2019s traditionally spent etching or keying super smooth parts.<\/li>\n
  3. I wanted to see what the area with support material would look like.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    After a couple of coats of adhesive promoter, I followed up with some grey undercoat, which I quickly inspected to make sure it was bonding properly. Happy with that, 2 top coats of standard Honda swinging arm silver were applied, and then two coats of UV resistant lacquer saw the results shown above.<\/p>\n

    Conclusion<\/strong>:
    \nOnyx painted really well in my simple tests, so I don\u2019t see any reason why it won\u2019t in a workshop environment. I didn\u2019t suffer any chemical reactions with the adhesion promoter, paint or lacquer. The support area was still visible through the painted surface, so perhaps next time I\u2019ll do some prep work there, if it matters.<\/p>\n

    Feel free to give it a go yourself I\u2019d like to see the results.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    September\u2019s blog talks about applying finishes to Onyx parts. Faced with a question I couldn\u2019t answer from a customer, I disappeared off home for the weekend with the challenge of spraying one of the showroom samples a metal colour. Having sprayed plastic before I was aware that there are problems getting paint to adhere to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":32,"featured_media":2127,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[2111],"class_list":["post-2126","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general","tag-onyx"],"yoast_head":"\nPainting Onyx - Mark3D UK - Markforged partner for 3D printers in the UK<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"September\u2019s blog talks about applying finishes to Onyx parts. 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